This article is for beginners or those who simply don’t know how to set up their instrument. It is not a discourse on becoming a luthier. You may have been bought a guitar as a present but find it’s unplayable in which case this article is for you.

The most frequently asked question when  customers are selecting a guitar is has it got a good action?

Even the cheaper models of electric or acoustic should be capable of having a low playing action.

The first area to examine is the neck.

Look down the neck side on from the headstock to the body as you would checking a snooker cue for straightness. If the neck is bowed inwards ie concave the truss rod requires tightening. The truss rod is a metal bar that runs down the neck allowing compensation for movement in the neck. The key is located either at the end of the neck from within the soundhole or under a removable plastic cover on the headstock. It’s usually an allan key. Tighten if the neck is concave, slacken if convex. The guitar should be tuned when you check.  The golden rule is do not force it.

The next port of call is the bridge. On the electric guitar there are bridge saddles with vertical and lateral adjustment screws.(more of the lateral screws in a minute). On Gibson style bridges the bridge is vertically adjustable with two large slotted screws. If you aren’t sure about this ask your dealer before attempting. A locking trem system can be quite complicated so seek advice .

An acoustic guitar is  cruder to adjust. To reduce the playing height you will often have to remove material from the side of the saddle that sits in the bridge. The easiest method is sandpaper on a flat surface. You may be lucky and find removable shims under the saddle. As always take your time.

The next area to look at is intonation. When a guitar is assemble the 12^th fret should be halfway between the nut and the bridge. On an acoustic it either is or it isn’t.  If not there’s nothing you can do without relocating the bridge. A big job. With an electric it’s easy you simply use the lateral adjustment screws. A little tip just use your common sense. In the late 70’s a purchased a used Gibson 345. I could not get it to play in tune on examining the bridge I discovered there was not enough lateral movement. I telephoned Robbie Gladwell (Norlin at the time ) and he sent me a new bridfe. This is not rocket science but even a company like Gibson get it wrong. The easiest way to check is with an electronic tuner. Play the open string and then the fretted 12^th note. They should agree if sharp or flat compensate.

Lastly look at the playability in the nut area. If this seems high you will need some nut cutting files. I would advise taking this into your local dealer.

Having a relationship with your local shop is essential. Advice should cost nothing.

Have a great rocking new year from all the lads at Fret Music..

Eddy Hailwood