Amplification – By Eddy Hailwood

Posted by Fret Music | Buying Guides | Friday 17 October 2008 3:49 pm

This is an introduction to our amplification department. This covers backline amplification for all instruments including electric guitar, acoustic guitar, bass and keyboard.

The very first consideration is what size in watts do I need my amp to be. Most of the quoted watts outputs on this site are RMS so they are accurate. Remember also that 100watts is only partly louder than 50 watts not twice as loud. A valve amp whilst only rated at 30watts e.g. Vox AC30 is as loud as any 80 watt transistor amp. It will also be far richer in harmonics giving the so called valve sound.

If you are playing in a small environment e.g. at home, a small practise amp of 15watts will do the job fine however a bigger amp will give you far more depth of sound.

If you are playing guitar in a band you should be using an amp capable of 100watts the bass player and keyboard player should ideally have 3 times more power i.e. 300 watts. Because of budget constraints this is not always possible however be aware that you need reserve power to sound good.

A combo amplifier is an amp and speaker(s) combined in one unit. A head and cab(s) are a separate amp head and speaker cabinet(s).

A good speaker(s) will make a tremendous difference to the efficiency of an amp but won’t always sound good right up close. A near field type of speaker will sound great in the shop or at home but will not reach the back of the room at a gig.

Ensure the amp of your choice has sufficient EQ i.e. bass, middle and treble controls. Most good bass amps will have a graphic equaliser. Do you need reverb?. Nearly all modern guitar amps come with 2 or 3 switched channels providing a variety of clean and distortion settings.

Generally however all amps with a decent name tag are good value. Just check out the specs to make sure it’s the amp for you. We are linked to some fantastic web sites so have a good look around. Each department guitar amps, bass amps and keyboard amps have an introduction by a well respected person from the industry

How to choose an acoustic guitar – By Serge Alsteens

Posted by Fret Music | Buying Guides | Friday 17 October 2008 3:48 pm

My name is Serge Alsteens and I represent EMD Distribution for the whole of Europe. We partly specialise in quality Canadian acoustic guitars and have had a long association with Fret Music who we know will give you first class service and advice. I have extracted some tips from The ‘Robert Godin’ notes on selecting an acoustic guitar that I feel summarises the most important relevant points.

The Instrument.

The most important things in the construction of the guitar are resonance and durability . It must also look good.

The Top

Most people assume that the sound of the guitar is produced by air set in motion from vibrating strings becoming amplified inside the ‘box’ and projecting from the sound hole. Although this explanation is not incorrect it is misleading because it neglects the significance of the top . Virtually every part of the guitar contributes to the sound of the instrument, but having said that, there is no doubt that the single most important component in an acoustic guitar is the top . The vibration of the top is responsible for about 80% of the instrument’s sound.

The top can be made of laminate or solid typically cedar or spruce wood . The quality option is a solid top the primary benefits being sound and ageing .

A solid top vibrates much more freely than a laminated top. This vibration provides richer tone , better dynamic range and better balance of tone . The second reason is that a solid top actually improves over time. The vibrations from playing the guitar result in the top vibrating more and more freely. This phenomenon is called ageing which means the more a guitar is played the better it will sound. It is important to remember that in order for a guitar to age it must be played. A guitar left in its case for 5 years will get older but it will not age . A lacquer finish will allow the top to vibrate more freely and is highly recommended.

Back and Sides

A guitar body works in much the same way as a ported speaker enclosure , the top vibrates as in the speaker and the back and sides reflect the sound in much the same way as the speaker cabinet does. Dense hardwoods like mahogany and rosewood are the ideal timbers and ideally solid not laminate.

Neck

Most necks would be made from mahogany or maple with a rosewood or ebony fingerboard. The quality all contributes to the sound.

With the current highly competitive market place, there is really no such thing as a bad guitar . Providing you pay a reasonable amount of money for the instrument (£100 plus) and if you buy from a reputable dealer the quality should be OK. Often the difference between a good and bad guitar is a simple tweak of the truss rod and an adjustment of the bridge saddle .

Electric Guitar Covers A Vast Range Of Alternative Features

Posted by Fret Music | Buying Guides | Friday 17 October 2008 3:45 pm

The Electric Guitar Explained

Electric guitar covers a vast range of alternative features. As such it is impossible to cover every possible option. The object of this article is to give the beginner some background information to enable them to wade through all the different makes and models specification and throw some light on the differences.

In very general terms most guitars are derived from the Fender and Gibson originals ie

1/ Fender Telecaster

2/ Fender Stratocaster

3/ Gibson Les Paul

4/ Gibson SG

5/Gibson 335

The most fundamental difference between the sound of a Fender and the sound of a Gibson is primarily due to the pickups. Fender use a single coil and Gibson a double coil known as a humbucker. The Fender is therefore known as having a clean open sound and the Gibson a more rounded full tone. Compare Pete Townsend playing a Tele eg “Can’t Explain” to the Carlos Santana rounded sound on Samba Pa Ti.

All of the above models were released in the fifties. This is some testament to those original designs. There are few modern icons that have stood that test of time without much change.

So to keep it simple we will look at the orginal models and their features

Fender Telecaster

There are many variations of the Tele but the main features are as follows. The neck is made from maple and has either a maple or a rosewood fingerboard. The machineheads also called tuners are situated in a line (referred to as six a side). The neck is detatchable from the body by usually 4 bolts and a metal plate.

The strings are actually fitted from the back of the guitar anchored in ferrules which then pass through the body of the guitar and the bridge. This gives a distinctive Tele sound. That wonderfull country almost pedal steel quality where the string is vibrating through the whole body.

There are two single coil pickups referred to as the neck and bridge pickups.

Originally designed by Leo Fender in 1949 as the Broadcaster the guitar has changed very little. Leo got it right the first time.

In my opinion the most useable guitar. Great for jazz, country or rock although obviously it does not feature a trem.

Fender Stratocaster

Designed by Leo Fender in 1954 it is the world’s most popular electric guitar favoured by it’s greatest players.

There are many variations of the Strat but the main features are as follows. The neck is made from maple and has either a maple or a rosewood fingerboard. The machineheads also called tuners are situated in a line (referred to as six a side). The neck is detatchable from the body by usually 4 bolts and a metal plate.

The guitar is available with a fixed bridge (hard tail) or far far more commonly with a tremolo system. This is a unit that pivots on the top and has anchor springs in a rear recess to allow you to operate an arm and drop the pitch for effects. This is always more of a fiddle if you have this on your guitar when setting it up as you can experience tuning problems. However once you have the correct procedure it’s a doddle.

There are three single coil pickups controlled by a 5 way switch allowing a good range of sounds. The volume knob is ideally placed to be operated by the little finger for swelling effects.

Gibson Les Paul

Developed by Les Paul in the mid to late 50’s. There are some variations of the Les Paul but the main features are as follows. The neck and body are made of mahogany with the neck attached to the body by a glue joint (referred to as a fixed neck). The fingerboard on the neck is rosewood and the cap on the body is maple. The maple top is fixed so the grain of the wood runs across ways in the opposite direction to the body. The tuners are mounted three a side.

The strings are anchored on a stop tailpiece that is fixed on 2 height adjustment screws and then pass over a tunamatic bridge with 2 height adjustment screws and saddle adjusters for each string.

There are two humbucker pickups controlled by a 3 way switch with 2 volume and two tone controls.

Gibson SG

The SG is very similar in construction to the Les Paul but does not have the same body mass and does not have a maple top. Has a lighter more thinner sound with more mid range. Listen to Angus AC DC

Gibson 335

This is a thinline acoustic guitar with a centrally fitted maple block to prevent feedback. Has a wonderfull woody sound ala B.B. King.

Apart from the fact that it’s a semi acoustic it’s construction is similar to the other Gibsons. Some semi acoustics do feature a trapeze tailpiece instead of a stop tailpiece.

Most modern guitars have developed out of the above design ideas. Here are some extra design features not on those original guitars

Phase reversal

A switch that reverses the polarity of the pickups giving the sound a hollowed out nasal type quality

Coil Tap

Where the coils of a humbucking pickup are split by operating either a push pull pot or micro switch. An instant Fender type sound.

Locking Trem System

A tremolo system ala Kahler or Floyd Rose where the trem drops far more than a traditional system allowing special heavy rock motor biking effects and the strings are locked at the nut to prevent tuning problems.

24 Frets

Some guitars have 24 instead of the traditional 21 frets for double octave range

Neck Thru

An alternative form of construction where the neck and body are fashioned from the same piece of wood.

Locking Tuners

These are machineheads used with deeper drop tremolo systems where the machine head can be locked. Ala Sperzel tuners

As you may have guessed my own prefence is Telecaster. However all players have their own ideas. My advice is get out there visit some stores and play as many as possible and get to know their differing characteristics. Like most guitar players you’ll probably end up owning them all anyway.

Good Playing!

Eddy Hailwood Fret Music M.D.

« Previous Page